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dedMann

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I am curious about these contraptions!
This thread is not for the people who want to run dual voice coil subs running 2ohm, bridged and molded to the truck boxes with amps and capacitors..... A number of us just need a little seasoning to our taste in music. The future is here and we have a multitude of ways to improve our stereo. Lots of us have had cars with factory subs and decent sounds; for instance, my Honda Elements' tiny minuscule 6.5" (i think it has dual V.C.) provides enough lows to fulfill the missing sounds you find in a barely average system. I'd like to achieve this with minimal expense and efforts. In comes the Active/Powered Subwoofers. I am skeptical of the slimline low powered units, but as I said: The Future Is Here! Some of these may be transducer types more than woofer type. I'd like to highlight the high level (speaker output) no fuss option for us lazy and cheap connoisseurs of music. (quick note: I play Bass guitar from time to time and its my favorite parts of all music. Mesa Boogie/Ampeg bass amps ruined my enjoyment of basic sounds)...

Below is a small sampling of a list of options from cheapy to sorta cheapy:
(links will be from Amazon because of connivence. I am sure some are nearly identical to others)

Sound Storm LoPro10
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
BLAUPUNKT GTHS81
MTX TN8MS
Rockville RW68CA
Nakamichi NBF618S
Alpine PWE-S8
Kicker Hideaway 10"
MB Quartz
Pioneer TS-WX130DA
JBL BassPro sl2
Kenwood KSC-SW11
Cerwin Vega Mobile 12"
KICKER 11HS8
RockFord Fosgate PS-8
Gravity GRWF10
JVC CW-DRA8
*** I believe these would all fit and use speaker level connections. If you have experience with any of these; PLEASE chime in! Cheers 🍻
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dedMann

dedMann

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I had a minute to goof off with so I made a dummy analog of the RockFord Fosgate P300-8P. It wasn't even close. I wanted to start with the larger sized stuff and cut down my dummy until things fit 🙃
Ford Maverick Active Powered "All-N-One" Subwoofers B7E63523-6CB9-4C0B-8C3B-7B436E8D5A3B
 

respi133

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Great start to the thread, we can never have enough write ups! Was looking into active powered subs too as part of my audio overhaul but haven't started in yet, thanks much for especially working your way through the dummy fits - with pictures!! My favorite type of OP..
 

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almsot all
I had a minute to goof off with so I made a dummy analog of the RockFord Fosgate P300-8P. It wasn't even close. I wanted to start with the larger sized stuff and cut down my dummy until things fit 🙃
B7E63523-6CB9-4C0B-8C3B-7B436E8D5A3B.jpeg
Most if not all of these powered subs would need to be put under one of the seats to fit.
 

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Most if not all of these powered subs would need to be put under one of the seats to fit.
Most of the style like the Kicker Hideaway will fit behind the rear seat. The P300-8P reportedly fits in the underseat storage bin area with the plastic removed. I believe there were a few others that fit to varying degrees in the storage bin with/without removing the bin.
 

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I have the 10" version of the Rockford Fosgate self powered little sub in my current escape and it does an incredible job. P300-10. I used high level inputs from behind the Sync 3 unit and use the input sensing power on feature on the unit itself to tell it when to power on and off. I'm quite happy with it. I went to HS in the early/mid 90s and we were all running around listening to stuff like Snoop, Dre, Murder was the case soundtrack, westside connection, etc I kinda like listening to that sometimes when the wife and kids aren't in the car with me and the P300 really pounds and goes pretty low. Its not like the neighbors will feel you coming down the street but it sure fills the car up with some impressive bass. Ive heard the 8" version is good too but haven't heard it in person. I'm considering something like that for when my maverick comes.

I also like how it has quick connections so you can take it out quickly when we haul our greyhound somewhere and need the space in the cargo area. Just 2 quick harness plugs and its out, and vice versa. Literally seconds. The box seems to be a solid heavy plastic/composite material. Has a x-over, bass boost, and gain knobs on it. I have them about halfway up and it does well.
 
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dedMann

dedMann

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I have the 10" version of the Rockford Fosgate self powered little sub in my current escape and it does an incredible job. P300-10. I used high level inputs from behind the Sync 3 unit and use the input sensing power on feature on the unit itself to tell it when to power on and off. I'm quite happy with it. I went to HS in the early/mid 90s and we were all running around listening to stuff like Snoop, Dre, Murder was the case soundtrack, westside connection, etc I kinda like listening to that sometimes when the wife and kids aren't in the car with me and the P300 really pounds and goes pretty low. Its not like the neighbors will feel you coming down the street but it sure fills the car up with some impressive bass. Ive heard the 8" version is good too but haven't heard it in person. I'm considering something like that for when my maverick comes.

I also like how it has quick connections so you can take it out quickly when we haul our greyhound somewhere and need the space in the cargo area. Just 2 quick harness plugs and its out, and vice versa. Literally seconds. The box seems to be a solid heavy plastic/composite material. Has a x-over, bass boost, and gain knobs on it. I have them about halfway up and it does well.
Thanks for the input! I really want a Punch product because of my prior experiences with them.
 
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dedMann

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I bought the Blaupunkt.
Blaupunkt GTHS81
Going to test it out and maybe abuse Amazons return policy. It is of the most affordable units and I am fairly certain it will fit fine ;) if it sounds as good as the stock Elements SC subwoofer(with Kicker speakers); we may stop here.....
 

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I am curious about these contraptions!
This thread is not for the people who want to run dual voice coil subs running 2ohm, bridged and molded to the truck boxes with amps and capacitors..... A number of us just need a little seasoning to our taste in music. The future is here and we have a multitude of ways to improve our stereo. Lots of us have had cars with factory subs and decent sounds; for instance, my Honda Elements' tiny minuscule 6.5" (i think it has dual V.C.) provides enough lows to fulfill the missing sounds you find in a barely average system. I'd like to achieve this with minimal expense and efforts. In comes the Active/Powered Subwoofers. I am skeptical of the slimline low powered units, but as I said: The Future Is Here! Some of these may be transducer types more than woofer type. I'd like to highlight the high level (speaker output) no fuss option for us lazy and cheap connoisseurs of music. (quick note: I play Bass guitar from time to time and its my favorite parts of all music. Mesa Boogie/Ampeg bass amps ruined my enjoyment of basic sounds)...

Below is a small sampling of a list of options from cheapy to sorta cheapy:
(links will be from Amazon because of connivence. I am sure some are nearly identical to others)

Sound Storm LoPro10
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
BLAUPUNKT GTHS81
MTX TN8MS
Rockville RW68CA
Nakamichi NBF618S
Alpine PWE-S8
Kicker Hideaway 10"
MB Quartz
Pioneer TS-WX130DA
JBL BassPro sl2
Kenwood KSC-SW11
Cerwin Vega Mobile 12"
KICKER 11HS8
RockFord Fosgate PS-8
Gravity GRWF10
JVC CW-DRA8
*** I believe these would all fit and use speaker level connections. If you have experience with any of these; PLEASE chime in! Cheers 🍻
Great points and reasonable questions. :cool: I've reviewed most of these and really like the smaller form factor of some of the 8" and the so called 6 x 8. I've been intrigued by the Blaupunkt GTHS81, Rockville RW68CA, DS18
BASS68 6X8", or other 6" x 8" powered subs. I will either need speaker level inputs or will add DS18 V5HL 5-Channel Line Out Converter.

Lately, I've been reviewing adding a pair of component subwoofers or mid basses with a moderate powered amp. maybe a pair of Rockville W65K9D2 6.5", RVL69W 6x9 300w Competition Cast Aluminum Subwoofer/Mid-Bass+Lows (50-8000 Hz. Sensitivity 92 dB), RV65.2C (34-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB), RV68.2 (32-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB), a pair of RV69.2C Components (30-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB) and a pair of X8C Competition 8" Component Speakers/Titanium Tweeters Pro Audio 40Hz – 20,000 Hz. Sensitivity 90dB).

The true subwoofers I would mount under the rear seat and the mid bass probably in the doors fabricating a pod enclosure.

Since I want something mostly to fill in the bass I'm not going to spend more than $150 or so. A mid bass with good specs will work for me. That eliminates many of the more expensive thumpers.
 
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skinnyboy

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I bought the Blaupunkt.
Blaupunkt GTHS81
Going to test it out and maybe abuse Amazons return policy. It is of the most affordable units and I am fairly certain it will fit fine ;) if it sounds as good as the stock Elements SC subwoofer(with Kicker speakers); we may stop here.....
Please forgive my ignorance on things car stereo, how will you provide input for the unit? Me like "minimal expense and effort" :).

Wish I had never sold my Uly :cautious:.
 
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dedMann

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Great points and reasonable questions. :cool: I've reviewed most of these and really like the smaller form factor of some of the 8" and the so called 6 x 8. I've been intrigued by the Blaupunkt GTHS81, Rockville RW68CA, DS18
DS18 SQBASS68 6X8", or other 6" x 8" powered subs. I will either need speaker level inputs or will add d

Lately, I've been reviewing adding a pair of component subwoofers or mid basses with a moderate powered amp. maybe a pair of Rockville W65K9D2 6.5", RVL69W 6x9 300w Competition Cast Aluminum Subwoofer/Mid-Bass+Lows (50-8000 Hz. Sensitivity 92 dB), RV65.2C (34-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB), RV68.2 (32-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB), a pair of RV69.2C Components (30-22,000 Hz. Sensitivity: 91 dB) and a pair of
X8C Competition 8" Component Speakers/Titanium Tweeters Pro Audio 40Hz – 20,000 Hz. Sensitivity 90dB).

The true subwoofers I would mount under the rear seat and the mid bass probably in the doors fabricating a pod enclosure.

Since I want something mostly to fill in the bass I'm not going to spend more than $150 or so. A mid bass with good specs will work for me. That eliminates many of the more expensive thumpers.
I am trying to justify buying the Kicker key 200.4 amp. The wiring and install slows that urge. I will likely install the sub today and see how it sounds. originally wanted to keep expense below 500 lol! started at the end and will work forward till we have a sound good enough to crank and sing along with. One of the few spaces my wife and I go full teenager....
 
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dedMann

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Please forgive my ignorance on things car stereo, how will you provide input for the unit? Me like "minimal expense and effort" :).

Wish I had never sold my Uly :cautious:.
The new tech of "tap" the speaker leads for "High Level" signal input makes this easier than it used to be. A Line Out Converter (small interface) for legit stereo connections can be added from the speaker wire to reduce the signal to "line level" RCA connections. I am hoping the sub has enough volume and fills the bass gap. I fear amping the new speakers will demand a real subwoofer set up to be heard in the mix.

I love the Uly. I bought it because of the height, and ability to have a comfy passenger. Sadly the wife would never ride on it. It's only ever had a MTB as a passenger. Great bike! I thought Buells were the sexiest things ever back in the 90s. After all these years; I still don't think I've broke 10k on the odo. I have been thinking of selling it, but the old man voice in the back of my head says; doesn't cost anything to keep it....
 

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The new tech of "tap" the speaker leads for "High Level" signal input makes this easier than it used to be. A Line Out Converter (small interface) for legit stereo connections can be added from the speaker wire to reduce the signal to "line level" RCA connections. I am hoping the sub has enough volume and fills the bass gap. I fear amping the new speakers will demand a real subwoofer set up to be heard in the mix.

I love the Uly. I bought it because of the height, and ability to have a comfy passenger. Sadly the wife would never ride on it. It's only ever had a MTB as a passenger. Great bike! I thought Buells were the sexiest things ever back in the 90s. After all these years; I still don't think I've broke 10k on the odo. I have been thinking of selling it, but the old man voice in the back of my head says; doesn't cost anything to keep it....
Thanks dedMann, look forward to seeing how it works out and perhaps do the same thing.

Truly a unique and fun bike, probably the most comfortable one I've owned. Unfortunately a mountain biking concussion prevented me from enjoying it, owing to the vibration at idle going through my arms :(. Such is life.
 

uh50

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I am trying to justify buying the Kicker key 200.4 amp. The wiring and install slows that urge. I will likely install the sub today and see how it sounds. originally wanted to keep expense below 500 lol! started at the end and will work forward till we have a sound good enough to crank and sing along with. One of the few spaces my wife and I go full teenager....
I know what you mean as I would love to have a Kicker Key 200.4 amp with a nice powered sub. But, the costs are more than I want to spend after upgrading and replacing the stock speakers. I would prefer to spend the money on the speaker replacement and consider several options. There are so many options for speakers so I'm taking my time and listening to Crutchfield's compassion (isn't spell check wonderful) compression tool with my headphones. So far I love the bright sound of various Kenwood speakers. They sound great with Jazz, Blues, or Easy listening but still have enough bass for classic 60s/70s rock.

I'm thinking I will convert the hi level speaker signal via a DS18 V5HL 5-Channel Line Out Converter, High-Level Speaker Signal to Low-Level RCA Adapter with Built-in Audio Sensing Technology. It's a lower cost option that has an output for a powered subwoofer or a sub amp without depending on hi-level inputs and I believe the sub output is taken from the front speaker hi-level which is not limited like the rear speaker output from the ACM. This is the unit at Amazon:


I've found other micro/compact amps that I can afford with reasonable and tested RMS ratings. I like these:

1) the Sony XM-S400D Compact 4-Channel Amplifier with tested RMS of 60 Watts @ 4 Ω.​
2) Kenwood KAC-M1824BT Compact Amplifier with tested RMS of 38 Watts @ 4 Ω.​
3) Kenwood KAC-M1814 4-Channel Compact Bridgeable 48 Watts @ 4 Ω.​
4) Blaupunkt AMP1804BT Car Audio 4-Channel Class D Amplifier 67 Watts @ 4 Ω.​

I'm seriously leaning toward the Blaupunkt AMP1804BT since it has the highest RMS output per channel and the lowest cost of the 4 amps. Obviously these are all fairly low or moderate power RMS amps, but all the RMS outputs listed are recorded tests at 4 Ω for 4 channels. Each has many features and are in the $100 range. If I go with adding two mid bass speakers to the doors, then I'll choose a similar bridgeable or mono amp to be fed off the the 5th channel from the DS18 5 Chanel line out converter.


Anyway, there are lots of options without killing the budget. Like you my wife and I love classic rock and folk music of the 60s and 70s, even doo-wop of the late 50s early 60s. When I'm by myself, I love to listen to Jazz and some easy blues, neither of which need a lot of bass, thus the possibility of adding mid bass speakers instead of a subwoofer.

I'll be watching your installation with ardent interest to see your direction and your opinion of the results. I love a reasoned and logical approach to decision making so good luck. :cool:
 
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Well today I installed the Blaupunkt (german for Blue Point). I was slow and methodical. I pulled the amp kit through the door sills. This part was going to stay despite any changes that may happen. I wanted to run a remote wire and a combined run of L+R. I did not use the remote, but it is ran. I soldiered everything but the "T-taps" that were used for signal. The sub is pretty ok. It shocked me at first. It does enough. I can't really fault its' sound. The stereo drives an ugly sound at high volumes. I haven't played with the knobs much with the exception of turning the gain down. Time to read the manual. haha...

I am curious if the sub could possibly feed back power to the speakers? It definitely sounds louder at the door panel.... I'm scratching my head. The other thing I have been wondering is if adding a kicker key 200.4 would iron out the signal and I could pull from the rears with bettercontrol of the sound from the steering wheel.
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