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It took some heavy heavy finesse. I got it...taking the boot off like above would have been far easier

I drive my about 100 miles after the update, didnt notice anything different except when I filled up, my tank milage was at 315 miles...im usually over 430 miles(on the dash)

Wonder if ford or any other manufacturers will void warranty if u go over the vehicles tow limit....with a trailer like this

There isnt really a complete one yet, seems like its not as in a hurry for updating as previous years...still no ez mode on some stuff

Yea, added first bit of kill mat to the back side of the inner door, next is sound reading the under seat tray area, and inside the rear and front doors back wall will be last, since it'll take the most and ill probably need to order more

just an update, the nvx stuff got here,puzu got here, did a test hook up to verify function, the speakers sounded meh... and the puzu kepts messing up.. returned all that, and jot a full jl set up with a helix dsp mini mk2 build list as follows jl c2 650 components jl c2 400x coax jl 10w6v3 sub...

how can i just get a t harness? im adding a helix dsp and such but i cant find just the harness i need so i can tap into the factory speaker wiring.. hoel wiring has one but so far i havent hear shit from them about my order...

Ive tried emailing and such. And nada, theres not phone number anywhere on my order

im in the same boat, door and rear speakers installed, amp rack is is 90% finished and still no word from hoel about my diy harness i ordered a week ago...

but where exactly, ive seen allot of people use the ground on the passenger side up near the speaker.

probing around for a good ground and all the spots(even the factory)are 10-14 ohms(seems a little hight) multimeter is good(measured a known resistance to test). my question is, cant i just ground straight to the battery? since its right under the rear seat? or is there a better spot. never had...

Yea, I cant find anything about it in the manual, forums, or searching google in regards to the load generating. So i just bit the bullet and order the jl audio 86 dsp with the load generating device for it, cost more, but better peace of mind

idk, im using a puzu c7 as my dsp... since i do not want to do any kinda of cutting on the oem harness, and i got the puzu c7 for free(but got it but car totaled before install). basically gonna use the puzu for the rca, tap into its wireing harness for each door speaker to the 4 channel amp.

i dont have the b and o system, do i need load generating devices? im running the speaker to an aftermarket amp. with a puzu c7 controller the rca output.

dang man i was just researching this, since crutchfields 30 amp limit sounds horrible... i have about 1000 watts im wanting to run

Take this with a grain of salt (your results may vary). I didn't want to pull the door, so I used one of those flat metal wire runners, and it worked like a charm. I ran it through the foot well up into the door, attached the wires to the end, and pulled it back through.

Before I say this, im gonna state i do not condone this- it have a 2025 xlt fwd hybrid, bought a mini excavator( steal of a deal), weight of excavtor was 3500, weight if stealer was 1200, drove about 50 miles from where I picked it up, mpg in tow haul mode was was 13 mpg at a constant 55, road...

I havent installed it yet, trying to figure out the remote wire for the puzu, and mounting of the little crossover box the speakers came with

so i got all my parts in puzu cz dsp nvx nda 11005 ampnvx vsp4 4inch 2 way coax nvx xsp65kit and alll the sound deading and such(sub will be added later) my question is, should i run the puzu c7 in host of acc? and if acc, where do i run the remote wire to on the maverick?i have a 2025 xlt...

Thanks for that, im putting together the parts for the upgrade, nothing crazy, the stock speakers suck bad