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I just realized you bought the Lasfit T3 bulbs. I had the previous gen bulbs which were reliable but were not very bright. I looked up the T3 and they were $63 on their website. Pricey These are the Lasfit I had before.

Resistors are not required. When you change the setting in Forscan it stops the hyperflashing in the instrument cluster by ignoring the bulbs resistance. LED bulbs have a much lower resistance than halogen bulbs and so manufacturers of LED bulbs will add a resistor fo their LED bulb to mimic...

The position of the bulb is not in the correct position relative to the reflector. Lasfit makes the bulb too long so it doesn't put the LED chip in the same position as the stock halogen bulb does. As a result the bilb isn't as bright as it should be. Important if you're using them as DRL.

I had the Lasfit 4257. They were junk and the bulb position wasn't right so they weren't very bright. It's why I suggested the 3157 bulbs and just remove the plastic tabs. There are endless choices with the 3157.

I think you meant to quote sanpablo. When you change the settings in Forscan, you can move the DRLs from the headlights to the front turn signal bulbs. The signal as always. The stock halogen bulbs do run hot when they are on constantly and could melt lenes. The Toyota Tundra that runs DRL...

No, they are 3157. The only difference between the two are the little plastic tabs I circled in the picture. File them off and they plug right in. I've been using 3157 for both my tail lights and front turn/DRL/marker for over two years.

You do have to remove these little tabs I've circled but they come off easily with a file. It's a 3157NA bulb.

I run LED bulbs as DLRs without issue. I also run LED for my tail lights. You will have to remove the hypeflash with Forscan. These are the ones I'm using.

The door lock is a "you" problem and there is no way I way get rid of a vehicle for a $130 battery. I also had the deep sleep issues but a new AGM battery solved the issue.

Yes sir a month and two visits from a Ford engineer that came in to help diag. The dealership techs couldn't figure it out so I had to wait untill a Ford engineer arrived at the dealership, diagnosed it, then parts ordered.

Yes they did find it. It was a modem issue which they replaced. Took them about a month but they did give us a rental.

The 20" wheel and tire assembly is probably a heavier assembly.

I not sure why you would see reduced mpg. I've had them installed for about two weeks now and I swear my mpg has gone up. Just today travelling at 65mph and saw 45.6mpg on a trip about 50 miles. I never got that on the stock rims and tires.

For comparison, before and after.

I went ahead and purchased the Mach-E wheels and tires and I'm very happy with the result. They came off a 2024 Mach-E that had been removed to install new rims and tires and had only a month of driving on them. I like these better than the Bronco Sport rims because the wheels are meant for...

I realize this is a very old post but I have come across a set of Range Rover Evoque wheels. Do the stock Ford center caps fit the Range Rover wheels? Any downsides since you put them on? Thanks

The set I'm looking at are these ones. Do all the Mach-E wheels have the same offset? Are you using wheel spacers because from your pictures they look the same as the stock set.

I realize this is an old thread but I came across the same set of wheels and tires and considering them for my Maverick Hybrid. Can you take a picture of the wheels from the side? The offset concerns me and I would hate if the wheels looked noticeably further in the wheel wells.

I got around to installing a 20" wiper on the passenger side. Works well and now cleans the camera area. So 20" and index the arms down will hide the wipers. The wiper I bought was the Scrubblade from Walmart.

It just misses the camera by a tad. I will get a clean camera warning if it's snowing hard. I going to try a 20" when I have time.