I hear ya. I have mixed feelings on deposits. I wouldn't (and didn't) pay one, but I also wouldn't (and didn't) put in multiple orders at different dealers, so I appreciate if it cuts down on people doing so.
Totaly agree. I took the $1,800 check from insurance, sanded and clear coated the aluminum. Dent isn't that bad and shouldn't oxidize now. I'll wait for a few more rear enders and bolt a new one on.
Hi all -
I had a large object kick up and dent/scratch my hood beyond repair. Rather than deal with a ~$2,000 insurance claim, I am in search of a used OEM hood that I can bolt on, preferably lightly used from a Mav that has had rear end damage. Any advice or direction is appreciated!
So, can confirm there is a difference. First noticed much less direct injection chatter in cabin on cold starts. After a long, windy highway drive yesterday, definitely less noise while cruising too.
Interesting and great timing. I had my XLT glass replaced today and the new glass part number ends in "-CC", but also has "AM0XE Laminated" and the "SoundScreen" logo. So I believe I got Lariat glass without ordering (or paying!) for it.
So maybe -DC/-CC isn't the difference for acoustic vs...
Didn't notice a difference in 30 miles of driving earlier, but will do. I agree, XLT glass was totally pleasant and acceptable (before its puncture wound).
There are a handful of Safelights in my area, all of which have Google/Yelp reviews with less than 2 stars. Compare that to the local shop with 4.9 stars and cheaper quote, seemed like a no brainer. Bonus points on the acoustic glass when it's 2 notches above what I ordered and paid for. 😁
Geico wanted to send me to a local (horrible) Safelight location nearby whose quote was $874. They said I could find someone else locally and they'd cover anything up to that amount. I have a very reputable, family-owned glass business nearby who quoted $830 for the non-OEM and $1,100 for OEM...