Hey, to all reading this thread. I'm sorry for my snarky tone. I'll try to be more positive. Really, I do like to help and have tons of experience.
And as a confession, my 65 Mustang Convertible restoration was written up in a Mustang Magazine. The them if the article was basically "An idiot...
A car way before it's time. An American Allroad! Heck, everything now is lifted and clad and sells an off road vibe.
I've got kids. I'd take a 4-door wagon.
This is a type of trailing arm suspension. The open circles would be attached to the chassis. As the arms drop, like when lifting a truck, the contact points by the wheel move in circular arcs. The more the static angle of the trailing arm varies from horizontal, the more the wheel moves forward...
I don't have a Maverick. I'm just being obnoxious here for free!
;)
Actually behind my thinly veiled sarcasm is a serious desire to help. The carbibles suspension article is a GREAT primer in the various suspension designs and their issues.
My current crop in what my wife calls "the car...
This is what I mean about understanding your suspension geometry. It's a trailing arm. A metal bar if fixed length. It's attached at a point on the unibody. The other end HAS to move in a circular arc. If the rest osition has the rear orm drooping at angle1, extension to angle2, the wheel will...
Look at the rear trailing arm. If it's lower at the wheel than the body yes, it moves rearward when the suspension is compressed.
Did everyone here cut geometry in school? ;)
Really, understand your suspension geometry before doing ANY modifications!
THIS!!!!!!
Please tighten the nut behind the wheel prior to making any suspension changes. (This is a twist on a saying in track driving: "The easiest way to go faster is to tighten the nut behind the wheel." It means skills work better than mods.) For trailing arm suspensions, if one changes...