Recent content by Ianrmcdonald84

Programs such as "x time" specifically punish technicians if they don't recommend a service. Many dealers use that or a similar system. So oil guy gets in trouble for being honest.

Something that may or may not still apply. But with even mercon 5, dextron 3 fluids if you over heat them such as stuck rocking out in snow, etc... you drastically shorten the life of the fluid. Speaking as an old tech who has replaced a lot of transmissions and rebuilt them. Lubrication...

It works when no high demand, including electric, are going on. Or extreme hot/cold.

As far as my 24 ecoboost goes, start stop does what the book says. Extreme hot or much below freezing it does not try to operate. It was designed that way. Max heat or ac same thing. Battery is fine, agm , but fine. I use a ford battery charger, jumper, tester. Capable of giving warranty codes...

When it warms up and it'll do it in their parking lot it's going in. This almost reminds me of in 04 new body style, with the 2 piece driveshafts that weren't lubed on certain f150s. They'd bump.

I mean no disrespect, but I was a ford gasoline senior master tech. Stars id started with 00103xxxx. Im that old. I left the industry because of warranty and flat rate pay issues. The bump is not normal, typical, but not intentional and I intend to use my contacts to fix mine. First I need to...

As far as I'm concerned, I have a lot of bumper to bumper warranty left. However, it seems like about 40°f is the bump cold level. When it's hot, i can do it in their parking lot. It will bump at 13ish mph every time on deceleration . I have a 24, with about 6k. I hope that it gets through...

I tried searching for this, so sorry if this is redundant but 25+ pages of any words matching is rough to look through. I'm wondering if anyone has managed to download a copy of the service manual for a 24 ecoboost and if they're willing to share?

Dalola is right. Find your comfort zone. Personally, mine is towing means heat, heat is enemy. Change it more often. My 24 doesn't have the tow package. Means 2k instead of 4k capacity i believe and an extra cooler. But I don't have anything to pull. If you do something stupid and over heat...

If you're doing what it's rated to, not exceeding it'll be fine. If you're consistently going hard or 60,80,90%. Definitely change fluid often. Way cheaper than trans work. Hundred of fluid, 2k trans? Drain and fill is pretty easy. To change a filter on that, you have to split the case, tear way...

So most modern flush machines first use snake oil, that's how dealers get machines for free, just use our fluid....etc. Let's assume that's not the case. They're a take and give machine. Unless something goes wrong, if the used jug adds 5-6quarts, the new jug takes the same out. Unhook...

Changing oil too soon is cheap insurance. Honestly I put 4k a year on my maverick. I live close to work. I drive maybe 30 miles down the interstate to the next town once a week. Otherwise it's heated garage kept. But I keep my vehicles forever.

I'm also not towing anything. If you're towing, definitely 30k! My buddy has two chevy 1500s and trailers...if i need to borrow a trailer, I'll grab his truck too and throw a few gallons of gas in it. Most I'll move with maverick is honestly 2000 ish. Lawn trailer plus small rider?

Honestly, 30k. Drain and fill. But keep in mind its not going to be bright red like old school mercon v.

Former ford tech here. Do it every 30k. If you want be crazy/paranoid/spend money, do it more often. The older, but modern transmissions that asked for 30k fluid changes (look up definitions of normal service, no where meets it). Those were the heavy beat them up and they still lasted 200k+...