Recent content by Fehz

Likely going to just trade in very soon (possibly even today), but wanted to give someone here an opportunity first. Love the truck, but there are some needs not met by a full size. Located near Dayton, OH. Asking 33k for the buyer who will appreciate an incredible sound system. See my build...

Just over $2800 with all the materials and various components. Keep in mind this was 10 months ago. I don't even want to think of what installation would have cost if I paid someone to do it.

I think that's a pretty common thing. People will drill a hole in the white plastic connector. Well, they'll drill out to small spots to push through the positive and negative speaker wires independently. In my case, there was a spot where it was just the rubber boot that I drilled a small...

Sorry about that. Was a fun learning experience. At the time I'd done it, no one else was rewiring the fronts/rears and the amp I used had just been released. The factory wiring likely would have worked fine, but I really wanted to be able to push the limits. I tried using the existing door...

Yep. Many people cut it off and mount amps in other ways. I just decided to repurpose it in my case. It just sat a little too high to allow the amp to fit. Plus, being the same height as the antenna doohickey bracket allowed me to tie in there, too. I considered covering the board in carpet...

Better late than never -- I installed this system in my 2025 XLT back in March, but never got around to posting. Here are the basics of what I installed. Kicker 51LX1200.5 Amp - set up as 125 watts RMS x 4 @ 4 ohm + 700 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm for subs Kicker KSS670 components (front) Kicker...

Just did this and it worked great for me using a kicker lx 1200.5 with a kisload4 in front. Seems the built in DSP likes the flat signal much better. I also found a newer test version of forscan available - same link as before but a date of 20250406 in the file name.

The lx amps have built-in DSPs. I thought the amp itself might simulate the load in that circumstance. I'll dig in and maybe reach out to Kicker. Better safe than sorry and do what's necessary to protect the amp in the head unit. Edit: oh, I'm using a new run of 9-wire to get the signal. I...

Yeah, most likely considering the amp I'm using has separate internal amps for the front and rear, but it's the entire driver side giving out. Might just be an issue with the sync 4 on the 2025's, so not many reports of it yet.

Those speakers might work better with an aftermarket amp like the key amp everyone's been using. I could run it at 18 on the volume for 15 mins, then at 20 it would kill the left side within 2 mins.

Set the volume to 50% and was able to set the gains higher, making it louder than I've ever been able to get it before. Amp ran 15 degrees (c) cooler and was kinder on the battery, only dropping to 13.7v instead of 12.6. No clipping and was able to run it for 25 minutes no problem. Either the...

The Kicker LX amps come with a control module that shows temps. All seems fine there and it's not hot to the touch. I'll check wires next though. I also checked temps of the head unit best I can. I'm not burning myself resting my hands on the screen or the module hidden behind the middle air...

Not clipping. The amp gain knobs light up when clipping and I have been watching them like a hawk, and tuned them with Kicker's test tones. The gain is set quite a bit lower than needed just to be safe.

I'm installing a Kicker LX1200.5 along with all kicker speakers, running new 16 gauge wire everywhere (125w rms in the front), and a pioneer sub. Just using the DSP inside the amp. Sounds great and I'll post the build soon, but I'm having issues. After 5-20 minutes (depending on the volume I...

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I can't seem to find much other information out there. I found a solution to run the wire into the passenger side, but the driver side is proving challenging. I'm able to pull the plug and get a wire ran through the boot. Problem is getting it...