XLT hybrid audio upgrade

[blackb13]

Pretty much done with the audio upgrade, but I will update this thread with any new changes.

There are already lot's of great threads and videos that show the step-by-step, of wiring etc, so I didn't document that. However, I'd be happy to answer questions regarding wiring things up.

I used the PAC audio LPHFD31 to integrate everything without modifying the factory wiring. A standard 8ga amplifier kit, speaker wire and some RCA's were used. I had an old 1 farad capacitor, so I figured I might as well use it. Obviously, the hybrid makes 12v access super easy. I need to order another roll of Tesa tape and finish cleaning everything up. I'm going for an OEM+ look.

The DSP is the Expert PX2Connect and can be found on Amazon. I chose this one because it has the option of Bluetooth connectivity and still allows direct inputs if you don't want to use the app.

I've got a 4ch amp driving the front factory speakers and the 10" subwoofer. The rears are still powered by the factory radio.

So far it sounds much better. It's amazing how just amplifying the factory speakers improves their sound. And of course, adding a subwoofer is an absolute requirement. I'm still tweaking the DSP and hopefully I'll have it dialed in this week. I'm trying to avoid replacing the factory speakers, but I haven't ruled it out.

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[Aherpa]

Pretty much done with the audio upgrade, but I will update this thread with any new changes.

There are already lot's of great threads and videos that show the step-by-step, of wiring etc, so I didn't document that. However, I'd be happy to answer questions regarding wiring things up.

I used the PAC audio LPHFD31 to integrate everything without modifying the factory wiring. A standard 8ga amplifier kit, speaker wire and some RCA's were used. I had an old 1 farad capacitor, so I figured I might as well use it. Obviously, the hybrid makes 12v access super easy. I need to order another roll of Tesa tape and finish cleaning everything up. I'm going for an OEM+ look.

The DSP is the Expert PX2Connect and can be found on Amazon. I chose this one because it has the option of Bluetooth connectivity and still allows direct inputs if you don't want to use the app.

I've got a 4ch amp driving the front factory speakers and the 10" subwoofer. The rears are still powered by the factory radio.

So far it sounds much better. It's amazing how just amplifying the factory speakers improves their sound. And of course, adding a subwoofer is an absolute requirement. I'm still tweaking the DSP and hopefully I'll have it dialed in this week. I'm trying to avoid replacing the factory speakers, but I haven't ruled it out.

Back in the day, I built a couple of Hafler 200watt amps for my home stereo. I added 4 large capacitors to each amp.

Before the modification, music would stop playing almost immediately after powering off the amp. After the mod, the music would continue for 15-20 seconds (depending on the bass content). It's nice to have a reservoir of power to get you through the more demanding parts of the music.

Ah the old days. . .

Good job. Hope you enjoy modifying for years to come.

 

[zach57x]

This is a great setup! What are the dimensions of your sub box?

 

[blackb13]

This is a great setup! What are the dimensions of your sub box?

Using 1/2" MDF.

The baffle (red) is 16x10.5in and the bottom (blue) of the enclosure is 12x8.5in. The height (purple) from top of the baffle to the bottom, where the enclosure hits the bottom of the storage is 6.5in. The ends (green) and sides are angled to connect everything together.

 

[A Dodge that drives Fords]

NICE!

 

[blackb13]

Cleaned up the wiring with fabric tape and mesh loom.

Finally tweaked the DSP using some test tones and an audio analyzer app. The factory speakers aren't that bad once they get some power and tone adjustment. There are definitely some voids in the 600hz and >15khz range that fortunately the DSP is able to address. Obviously, the factory speakers are dead below 100hz, so the subwoofer is an absolute must. Having the DSP also helped flatten out the subwoofer as it was a little peaky in the 80-100hz range due to the smaller enclosure.

Over the summer I may add components because I'm not a fan of having the tweeters bounce of the windshield. That should allow for a better sound stage. For now, I'm satisfied.

 

[boblawlaw]

Curious about the PAC wiring harness and the wiring of the front speakers. Are the woofers and tweeters wired independently with the harness or do they share a channel and crossed over passively ?

 

[colinl]

Very nice build. I am kind of shocked you still have the factory speakers but you'll get a major boost when you do replace those. I do understand a dsp can work magic but the factory door speakers in particular are going to be very limited in SPL if you try to make them play midbass. It would be better to just replace them with whatever components you prefer.

Regarding the tweeter location, I agree that the dashboard is not ideal and have a suggestion. Don't try to use the mirror caps. The cover is held in by a very flimsy plastic connector. It's not even a barb like what holds the door panels on. I am pretty sure it will sag if you surface mount a tweeter on it.

I would instead just mount the tweeters on the door panel if not in the dash.

 

[Cabiles1]

I have concerns about placing the fuse under the rear seat. Where did you place yours?

 

[nobbyv]

I have concerns about placing the fuse under the rear seat. Where did you place yours?

I assume you mean amp fuse. You always, always, always want to place the fuse as close as possible to the battery. There's a small horizontal plastic piece in the corner of the driver's side of the engine bay within ~8" or so from the battery. I drilled two small holes and mounted my fuse holder there.

 

[colinl]

I assume you mean amp fuse. You always, always, always want to place the fuse as close as possible to the battery. There's a small horizontal plastic piece in the corner of the driver's side of the engine bay within ~8" or so from the battery. I drilled two small holes and mounted my fuse holder there.

I'm in that camp too, for good reason... but in a hybrid that puts it under the rear seat, unlike your (and also my) ecoboost Maverick it's in the engine bay, on the other side of the firewall.

I have not heard of anyone having issues but it's definitely possible. The easiest way to have an issue would be an overly-large fuse with an overly-small power wire. I don't like that in any situation, but it's definitely more of a concern if it happens under the rear seat, in close proximity to that gauze-like material on the bottom of the bench.

 

[nobbyv]

I'm in that camp too, for good reason... but in a hybrid that puts it under the rear seat, unlike your (and also my) ecoboost Maverick it's in the engine bay, on the other side of the firewall.

Ah, of course, I missed that it was ahybrid (despite being right in the title!).

 

[Cabiles1]

I assume you mean amp fuse. You always, always, always want to place the fuse as close as possible to the battery. There's a small horizontal plastic piece in the corner of the driver's side of the engine bay within ~8" or so from the battery. I drilled two small holes and mounted my fuse holder there.

For sure. The 12v battery for the hybrid is under the rear seat.

I'm in that camp too, for good reason... but in a hybrid that puts it under the rear seat, unlike your (and also my) ecoboost Maverick it's in the engine bay, on the other side of the firewall.

I have not heard of anyone having issues but it's definitely possible. The easiest way to have an issue would be an overly-large fuse with an overly-small power wire. I don't like that in any situation, but it's definitely more of a concern if it happens under the rear seat, in close proximity to that gauze-like material on the bottom of the bench.

I ended up mounting mine within the battery cubby. I have no reason not to trust my set up as I’ve had the same products in previous cars without issues. Just seems sketchy at first thought.

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