Fumoto Valve Fail

[pa-outdoorsman]

Damn. That sucks.

That said... Are these composite oil pans? It looks like the FV still threads into metal at least. I think the Colorado's are going with composite pans but they also have composite plugs too - as in, you can't use any metal valve at all. Brass does react to aluminum, so I am wondering what the metal inside the pan is threaded with. But, Fumoto uses brass specifically because of it's anti corrosion. So the softer metal is the trade off there.

I've heard good things about that Stahlbus. The only reason I'm using an FV is because I have it carried over from an Escape that I didn't use. Otherwise, I'd be trying the Stahlbus. That said, I have also used them for years and had no issue. I'm willing to bet Fumoto will take care of you in this situation - either with a refund or a new valve. Their customer service is pretty great.

Were you able to fish it out okay?

Yes it was just the threaded portion of the adapter that was in there and I was able to wedge a screwdriver in there and turn it out in one piece. Just replaced the factory plug and moved on.

Was definitely nervous when it first happened though! It could have been bad.

The money for the valve and adapter wasn't that much. So, I'm not that worried about it but I definitely would not feel comfortable using Fumoto products at this point. I may try the Stahlbus next time as it is made of steel.

BTW, the Maverick oil pan in not composite. It's metal. Not sure if aluminum or steel but the torque spec on the factory oil plug is 20 ft-lbs.

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[SKurj]

used one of these on my brz for years never an issue

 

[Montana]

Yes it was just the threaded portion of the adapter that was in there and I was able to wedge a screwdriver in there and turn it out in one piece. Just replaced the factory plug and moved on.

Was definitely nervous when it first happened though! It could have been bad.

The money for the valve and adapter wasn't that much. So, I'm not that worried about it but I definitely would not feel comfortable using Fumoto products at this point. I may try the Stahlbus next time as it is made of steel.

BTW, the Maverick oil pan in not composite. It's metal. Not sure if aluminum or steel but the torque spec on the factory oil plug is 20 ft-lbs.

Thanks for clarifying. Well, at least now you have a good reason to invest in an screw extractor tool lol. But seriously, just send them a msg and they will make it right. No sense in losing $30 or so over it.

 

[Ozarkbeard]

...Cub Cadet used a similar "quick drain valve" for awhile, actually drained slower than a plug. one of the very few issues I had with my mower...

Yeah, the one on my Cadet failed when it was almost new. CC issued a recall about a week after I removed the quick drain valve.

 

[TRUCKHEF]

Not to sound like a fumoto fan boy (I have them on all my vehicles never a problem for years) you need to remember that torque specs are dry. The second you get oil on the threads (you will) your coefficient of friction goes way down, clamp force and stretch go way up and voila your 15lb of torque (depending on the quality of the wrench and calibration) is like 30lb or more and SNAP!

 

[dalola]

I second the quality/design behind the Stahlbus. Yes they are pricey, but a solid "value" IMO. I installed one on my first oil change, and love it.

The instructions caution very prominently to NOT over-tighten the fitting (I forget the spec, but it's very low).

 

[pa-outdoorsman]

Not to sound like a fumoto fan boy (I have them on all my vehicles never a problem for years) you need to remember that torque specs are dry. The second you get oil on the threads (you will) your coefficient of friction goes way down, clamp force and stretch go way up and voila your 15lb of torque (depending on the quality of the wrench and calibration) is like 30lb or more and SNAP!

Yeah there would be no way NOT to have oil on the threads when you are installing into an oil pan. I don't doubt what you say which is why -- for me --I just don't think the Fumoto is a good idea. Something that finicky is asking for trouble IMO. Obviously others have had good experience with them.

I may try a Stahlbus valve next timeI need to change the oil. That one is made from steel andI think would be a lot easier to tighten without having to worry about it failing.

 

[dalola]

Not to sound like a fumoto fan boy (I have them on all my vehicles never a problem for years) you need to remember that torque specs are dry. The second you get oil on the threads (you will) your coefficient of friction goes way down, clamp force and stretch go way up and voila your 15lb of torque (depending on the quality of the wrench and calibration) is like 30lb or more and SNAP!

While all true, Fumoto should have taken that into account when setting the spec, and should have sufficient margin to avoid this. Assuming the OP's torque wrench is calibrated & accurate, I would assume this was just a random defective part. Fumoto generally has a good reputation, and there aren't too many stories like this that I'm aware of.

 

[Montana]

Just wanted to share my update after my first oil change...

Was installing the fumoto and I was not happy with the torque needing to be applied. It didn't feel right. So I backed off and installed a normal drain plug.

I'll be going with the Stahlbus from now on.

I did have the short nipple version and I did have to install the spacer first. Only reason I had that one was I carried it over from a 2.5L Escape I never used it on.

So, make that two reports of sketchy Fumotos. Odd because I've used them for the past couple vehicles, but whole lotta nope once you are tightening and it just starts to spin looser all the sudden.

I did email them and they will be refunding me, even though everything was bought over a year ago.

 

[pa-outdoorsman]

Just wanted to share my update after my first oil change...

Was installing the fumoto and I was not happy with the torque needing to be applied. It didn't feel right. So I backed off and installed a normal drain plug.

I'll be going with the Stahlbus from now on.

I did have the shirt nipple version and I did have to install the spacer first. Only reason I had that one was I carried it over from a 2.5L Escape I never used it on.

So, make that two reports of sketchy Fumotos. Odd because I've used them for the past couple vehicles, but whole lotta nope once you are tightening and it just starts to spin looser all the sudden.

I did email them and they will be refunding me, even though everything was bought over a year ago.

Yeah the sudden lack of resistance is when your brain goes, "Oh, sh--!"

 

[Montana]

Rather than buying the Stahlbus, I went the traditional route. I went with a Dorman replacement and got spare rubber gaskets for it. Part numbers and locations here.

 

[Wiingnut]

Ugh, that sucks, glad to see you were able to remove it. I've had a Fomoto valve on my Super Duty since '05 and I haven't had a single issue.

 

[Automan21]

15 lbs of torque seems like a lot for a brass fitting. I’ll be installing mine soon and might just do 8 lbs.

 

[mcluvin]

I know this is an old thread, but something that's bit me once, just because your torque wrench has a setting for 15 ft-pounds doesn't mean it's actually accurate to 15 ft-pounds. Read the fine print for the cheap Harbor Freight torque wrenches and you'll find that out. 15 ft-pounds is nothing.

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