- First Name
- Logan
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2022
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- 23
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- 28
- Location
- Fort Worth
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Maverick XLT FX4, 2022 Lariat Ranger Tremor
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- #1
**EDIT/UPDATE** DO NOT USE SOLAR CONTROLLER, USE A DC-DC CONTROLLER SUCH AS A VICTRON DC-DC AS LISTEN IN THE PARTS BREAKDOWN.
I made a mistake thinking that the 12v solar controller would work (it doesn't). I'm installing a Victron DC to DC (B2B) isolated charger tomorrow. I had a few solar controllers laying around, that's why I went with that first.
Goal: Be able to power things (fridge, tools, other electronics) off of an auxiliary battery while being able to charge that battery from the vehicles power WITHOUT draining the starter battery. Basically move all load onto the aux battery that will have a longer life span, more power and be far lighter than a standard battery.
Parts:
Ampeak 1000w Inverter (comes with wires)
Terminal Boots (encouraged but not necessary)
12v Cig Plug (Could use something different)
14awg Wire
PowerQueen 50ah LiFePO4 Battery
Terminal Connectors
Renogy Charge Controller Updated Part :Victron Orion 12v to 12v B2B Charger (Isolated/Bluetooth)
Battery Monitor (optional)
Nilight Panel (to be installed in the bed later)
Flat Swivel 3 Prong Plugs
*NOTE* I printed the battery tray, as well as the mounting bracket for the back of the inverter. I also used 3M dual lock for mounting the battery tray to the under-seat storage and the inverter tray to the back wall behind the seat. I may print these for sale if enough people are interested.
First you'll want to cut the female end off of the Noco 12v plug cable. Next, terminate each end with the appropriate sized terminal connectors, and heat shrink the connection after its made. Connect those to the solar charge controller on the panel posts, not the battery posts. You'll want to also make a positive and negative cable (maybe 2-3ft, give your self some room for cable routing) that you can run from the charge controller battery posts to the auxiliary battery terminal posts.
I mounted my aux battery in the space under the drivers rear seat, next to the Weboost amplifier I installed. It fits pretty well, and you could probably fit a 100ah battery there if you wanted to. Use 3M dual lock to mount the inverter to the top of the battery (or wherever you want really).
I ran the cables up to the 12v plug in the front. The original idea was to use the rear plug, but I didn't realize it was a constant hot. I wanted a visual aid of seeing that the battery was still plugged in so I didn't leave it plugged in when I wasn't in the vehicle. So, I ran it up front. Ran the wires under the rear seat trim, under the weather mat, then up and under the passenger side of the center console. All the way up under the dash and over the top of the center console trim, then back towards the plug.
The inverter didn't really have any solid way of mounting behind the seat. I remove the little black plastic feet that were mounted to it, and printed a new base to screw the metal mounting rails to. The back side of the mounting panel I made has 3M dual lock on it, I purposely made it a little oversized so that I could get as much contact between the adhesive side of the 3M and the back wall of the truck as possible. I might modify this in the future, but its holding very solid.
Connect the supplied cables to the inverter, then run them under the bottom of the back seat and into the storage tray. Make sure you create a ground wire to hook to the inverter also. You can use on of the two grounds on either side of the cab, they're easy to spot.
*Dont plug in the 12v cig male end yet* The positive and negative cables attached to the charge controller should be installed on top of the inverter cables then onto the battery terminals. The terminals are M6 bolts, so everything should fit just fine. Make sure to slide the terminal cables through the post covers if you're going to use them. Just a bit of security. Make sure all connections are secure and no cables are being pinched or are in bad locations for rubbing and what not.
Plug in the 12v male connector, then set your battery type to Li on the charge controller. You should be good to go now! I'm working on installing a remote switch for the inverter (the one from Ampeak is obtrusive and ugly), as well as finding a new 12v male end that has a single switch/light so that I don't have to unplug it. Hopefully this will give someone ideas or inspire them to do something cool with their vehicle. Any questions, just ask!
I made a mistake thinking that the 12v solar controller would work (it doesn't). I'm installing a Victron DC to DC (B2B) isolated charger tomorrow. I had a few solar controllers laying around, that's why I went with that first.
Goal: Be able to power things (fridge, tools, other electronics) off of an auxiliary battery while being able to charge that battery from the vehicles power WITHOUT draining the starter battery. Basically move all load onto the aux battery that will have a longer life span, more power and be far lighter than a standard battery.
Parts:
Ampeak 1000w Inverter (comes with wires)
Terminal Boots (encouraged but not necessary)
12v Cig Plug (Could use something different)
14awg Wire
PowerQueen 50ah LiFePO4 Battery
Terminal Connectors
Battery Monitor (optional)
Nilight Panel (to be installed in the bed later)
Flat Swivel 3 Prong Plugs
*NOTE* I printed the battery tray, as well as the mounting bracket for the back of the inverter. I also used 3M dual lock for mounting the battery tray to the under-seat storage and the inverter tray to the back wall behind the seat. I may print these for sale if enough people are interested.
First you'll want to cut the female end off of the Noco 12v plug cable. Next, terminate each end with the appropriate sized terminal connectors, and heat shrink the connection after its made. Connect those to the solar charge controller on the panel posts, not the battery posts. You'll want to also make a positive and negative cable (maybe 2-3ft, give your self some room for cable routing) that you can run from the charge controller battery posts to the auxiliary battery terminal posts.
I mounted my aux battery in the space under the drivers rear seat, next to the Weboost amplifier I installed. It fits pretty well, and you could probably fit a 100ah battery there if you wanted to. Use 3M dual lock to mount the inverter to the top of the battery (or wherever you want really).
I ran the cables up to the 12v plug in the front. The original idea was to use the rear plug, but I didn't realize it was a constant hot. I wanted a visual aid of seeing that the battery was still plugged in so I didn't leave it plugged in when I wasn't in the vehicle. So, I ran it up front. Ran the wires under the rear seat trim, under the weather mat, then up and under the passenger side of the center console. All the way up under the dash and over the top of the center console trim, then back towards the plug.
The inverter didn't really have any solid way of mounting behind the seat. I remove the little black plastic feet that were mounted to it, and printed a new base to screw the metal mounting rails to. The back side of the mounting panel I made has 3M dual lock on it, I purposely made it a little oversized so that I could get as much contact between the adhesive side of the 3M and the back wall of the truck as possible. I might modify this in the future, but its holding very solid.
Connect the supplied cables to the inverter, then run them under the bottom of the back seat and into the storage tray. Make sure you create a ground wire to hook to the inverter also. You can use on of the two grounds on either side of the cab, they're easy to spot.
Plug in the 12v male connector, then set your battery type to Li on the charge controller. You should be good to go now! I'm working on installing a remote switch for the inverter (the one from Ampeak is obtrusive and ugly), as well as finding a new 12v male end that has a single switch/light so that I don't have to unplug it. Hopefully this will give someone ideas or inspire them to do something cool with their vehicle. Any questions, just ask!
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